Quebec Road Warriors Riding Route 66

 Andre and Jean contacted me to create a motorcycle trip across the West on Route 66.  We spent time via Skype planning out their trip in detail.  The plan included shipping their bikes from Quebec to Las Vegas, NV.  From Las Vegas, we mapped out a detail route across the Southwest heading toward Santa Fe, NM.  The route gave them the opportunity to experience two lane open highways, stunning landscape, National Parks, and the wondrous Monument Valley, a personal favorite.  Right from the beginning of the ride they experienced sun, rain, snow, and fog.  True road warrior initiation!

After Andre and Jean arrived in Santa Fe we spent a couple of days riding together in the area.  I shared with them several of our incredible local two laners, including riding into the Galisteo Basin with a stop at the Mine Shaft in Madrid. (Some of the best riding in New Mexico)  Of course a trip to the historic Santa Fe Plaza was on the list.  

Historically Route 66 went directly through Santa Fe.  Old Las Vegas Highway heading east from Santa Fe is part of the original route.  The plan was for me to ride with them for two days and get them started west on Route 66.  From Santa Fe we saddled up and headed east on Route 66 to Las Vegas, NM.  

At Las Vegas we broke from Route 66.  Heading south toward Tucumcari we rode on one of New Mexico's little known jewels, Highway 104.  Dropping off the mesa takes your breath away as you press and lean into the curves.  The road is yours.  Not another car in sight.  Nothing can put a bigger smile on a biker's face.  When we pulled over for a short break, all of us were grinning ear to ear.  One simple word from Andre and Jean...WOW!

Tucumcari's Safari Motel is a Route 66 classic.  Beautifully restored rooms with beds you can really appreciate after a long day's ride.  Dinner at Dels with a cold beer and a juicy steak, another Route 66 classic.  After dinner we poured over the maps for Route 66 west.  I had supplied Andre and Jean with a special set of Route 66 maps.  Many riders think Route 66 is I-40.  Not true.  With the right maps one can ride most of the original Mother Road West to the Pacific.  Outside the sky was aglow with the neon of Tucumcari tonight.

Bright sunny morning.  Plenty of coffee, eggs, hash browns, sausage, and toast at the original KIX Diner got us off to a good start on the Mother Road.  We rode the original route west from Tucumcari jumping onto short sections of I-40 and then off again.  

 We road through Palomas, Montoya, Newkirk, Cuervo...ghost towns of the past.  Stopping west of Santa Rosa it was time for me to head back to Santa Fe and for Andre and Jean to follow Route 66 to the Pacific. 

It was a lot of fun planning the trip for them.  It was even more fun to see those oh wow moments and get to know two of our Canadian brothers.  Each night they kept me posted via text as they rode west, including a photograph of Jean seeing the Pacific for the first time.  As I say quite often...it just doesn't get any better.

be strong, be safe, Carlan

Breathing Hard in Bokoshe:

 

After 6 years of documenting the devastating health problems of the people of Bokoshe, OK caused by the flagrant disposal of coal ash, Pulitzer Prize winner, Inside Climate News, an online publication, contacted me and together we worked to publish their story. Here is the link: Breathing Hard in Bokoshe.

be strong, be safe, Carlan

A Tribute to Paul

Our nephew Paul finished his earth bound journey today.  Son, nephew, husband, father...all these and more.  Paul was a brother rider, a lover of the freedom of the open road.  An accident several years ago had left him in a suspended physical state.  No...not on a motorcycle, just a simple act of walking across a street and being hit by a car.  Life is short.  It can end it in a split second.  Too often it can be taken for granted.  Paul never did.  He embraced every moment.  I remember how he and his wife arrived for a family "get together" in Boston one time.  "Thought we would just ride the bike," Paul said.  "You know, it is just a short ride up from Florida."  That was Paul, embracing the moment.

Paul is free now.  It is easy to see him riding with the wind on his back, big smile on his face, embracing the moment.  Roll on the throttle brother, know you are enjoying the ride.  We will all miss you.

be strong, be safe, Carlan

China Express

 

The China Express is still rolling and will make a stop at Colorado Springs April 1 through May 21 at the University of Colorado’s Galleries of Contemporary Art.  The exhibit titled, BITUMINOUS, explores the history of coal and it’s influence on our economy and environment.  The gallery is located at the Plaza of the Rockies, 121 S. Tejon/Suite 100, Colorado Springs, Co.  Hours are Wednesday through Saturday 12-5pm.

An opening reception will be held April 1 from 5 to 9 and I’ll be presenting a slide show and lecture April 2, at 1:00pm.  In town?  Stop on by and say hi.

be strong, be safe, Carlan

When the weather changes for bikers:

Winter is closing in here in New Mexico.  My close neighbor is a biker too.  This morning we shared some text.   D = my neighbor...C = or course is me. It went like this:

D - In spite of the impact to motorcycle riding, watching this incoming storm is pretty cool.

C - Have to agree.

D - I noticed this morning that you parked your Jeeps in front of your garage, and that further they'd gotten icy overnight.  So now you'll have to scrape the windows before you can move them in order to get your motorcycle out, and I couldn't help wondering..."What is up with that?" 

C - Excellent observation...but look closely...perfect spacing between the Jeeps to ride out...always plan ahead in New Mexico.

D - Good point...I stand corrected.  So are you saying I'll be hearing the rumble of the Harley here shortly?

C - Checking out studded snow tires right now.

D - Awesome.

C - Shall I order you a set too?

D - I think I'll stick with the tire chains for now.  I am eager to see if you get better performance with the studs that I do with the chains.

C - Looks like the studded tires are pricey.  Headed to Home Depot later to pick up a big box of nails.  Should work to take the tires off and drive the nails through from the inside.  Will let you know how it works.  Will have plenty of extra nails.  I can bring some over later.

D - Sounds like a good plan.  Will you be bringing the extra nails over on your bike?

C - Only if my air compress can keep up.

D - Well this turned out to be one of those days where I actually rode as far as I was tempted to....

C - Just how far was that?  Were you in the zen moment...at that point just sitting in the garage on the bike will carry you along...

D - Yeah...just came in from taking out the recycling, which tempered my motivation considerably.

C Well...special on heated gear this weekend at SF Harley.  Just how heated can it be???

D - You gonna check it out?

C - Yea...got batteries?

D - It's not solar....I'm shocked!!

C - It's not easy being green. 

be strong, be safe, Carlan

Power of a photograph

Working in Farmington, NM this week.  Training Navajo Nation community members to use their cameras as tools to create a visual voice for issues surrounding their lives.  South on HWY 550 near Counselor, NM graphics on a deserted building caught my eye.  Made a u-turn.  Extensive oil and gas development on both sides of the highway.

Power of a photograph pasted on a crumbling building.  "Protect my future...Protect our water." Power of the visual voice.

 be strong, be safe, Carlan

And now the rest of the story...

On the road two weeks ago heading into the Texas Panhandle.  A week crisscrossing the Panhandle, wi-fi less, limited cell phone connection, rain, dust storms, small towns fading into history, meeting the real individuals of the Panhandle.  This is the rest of the story.

Cotton is king in the Panhandle.  Peanuts and wild pigs run a close second.

Shorty grows peas, beans, okra, cantaloupe, watermelon, tomatoes, and sweet corn.  "Anyone who needs food can come to my garden, pick anything they need, it's all a dollar a pound."

 Gas station For Sale.  Make an offer.

Once thriving communities playing host to stories of the past. 

Deserted schools and scoreboards.

Chairs along a main street echoing laughter once heard.

The rumble of my Harley brought Dennis into the street.  "Been ridin' Harleys for over 40 years.  Come on in and sit a while.  Know anything about fixing a stuck clutch?"

Mid Way Drive Inn.  Mid way between Quitaque and Turkey, TX or New York and Los Angeles.

 Girls at the Dixie Dog Drive Inn.  Best corn dog special ever.

Gas stop at Bob's Oil Well full service.

Kickstand down at the Hotel Turkey.  Built in 1927.  Good food, good bed, good stories with the ranchers.  All the ingredients of a great American road trip.

That's the rest of the story.

be strong, be safe, Carlan